Cara famiglia

- Guardavalle -

Cara famiglia,
I am writing from Guardavalle, Calabria in a room given to me by our distant cousins the Chieras. I am currently staying about two stone throws from the sea and enjoying it thoroughly. I arrived here last Tuesday the 12th and will be staying here until this Tuesday the 19th. Already I know that it is not enough time.

The is so much to recount that I don't know where to begin!I guess the best place to start is with the food - I think we can all agree on that. I arrived tuesday to a lunchtime pasta with sausage and eggplant as side dishes, from there the meals have just gotten better: Lasagna, pasta al forno (made in the oven), another dish that I forget what its called but it was like a lasagna but made with zucchini, prosciutto (ham), mozzarella... heavenly. Parmigiana - that's it.

Yesterday I went with Salvatore (my grandma's first cousin) to visit the grave of her grandfather Salvatore Taverniti whom which, we found out, is non longer buried there. Just the same we went to the city where Domenico Taverniti was born and lived for 19 years. The city Placanica is situated in the mountains a good 30km from the sea. It is strategically located on a mountain top that overlooks the water which historically served as a lookout for invaders coming from the african seas just aszio Salvatore will tell you that they still are (in recent years there has been an increase in foriegners or ex-patriots that vend trinkets in many touristy cities).We continued our trip to a beautiful grotto where a church had been built to honor the virgin Mary. Legend has it that Mary came in from the sea to this grotto where she drove out a demon that was hiding there.

As soon as I get a chance I will try and post some pictures but they can't do justice to how beautiful it was in that place. As we continued our journey someone somewhere had to be smiling to see the two of us together. Despite our drastic differences in age, language and origins we managed to find commonality in the little things that we could both appreciate: a beautiful view, fresh air, and a long sip of water from a fresh spring - we stopped at 4 different places that he has known of for years. We passed by the church of saint rocco as well.

I was just interrupted by Zio Tonino (who I am staying with) who reminded me to write that HE cooked last night and that it was good. haha we had hot dogs and french fries and onions and peppers which he made. Most of the food that they eat here comes from the compagna that they own and where they grow their food. Zio Tonino works in the local communal office and takes care of his fields as well.Life here in Calabria is very different and it would take pages to explain it and unfortunately I don't have the time or the patience (I am writing from an itouch and it is kind of a pain) but when I get back or when I get to Rome I will try to write some more. Suffice it to say that one of the main reasons that Calabria is as beautiful and undeveloped as it is is due to the heavy presence of a very real mafia. I am learning a lot down here and I hope I get a chance to tell you in person buy for now it is time to eat. ciao chow.
Steve